Cheap Street Eats
Chinese Breakfast of Champions |
Before
you can enjoy the best Chinese street food, you have to find it! In most big
cities, food vendors seem to group in clusters. To find the most popular places,
you should look down the side streets, not busy main roads. You will have
better luck in the older parts of town than in the newer business districts. Not
far from Green Oasis School, there is Tian Mian, a labyrinth of narrow streets
and tall tenements where many cheapie restaurants, vendors and food outlets can
be found. Finally, anywhere close to Shenzhen University is a good bet for
finding cheap food. If you are at a total loss, ask a local to point you in the
right direction. Timing is important because many stands only appear in the
early morning and after dark.
Once you see something that looks
enticing, take a moment to analyze the situation. In the war against food
poisoning, your first line of defence is your eyeballs. Does the stand look
clean and efficient? Are the ingredients covered and protected from flies? Or
is there meat sitting in the sun? Your best bet is to go for food that is made
fresh to order as your wait. You do not want anything that has been sitting there
for too long.
Near the Hanting Hotel, Central Park, Shenzhen |
When you are picking where to eat, follow the locals. Try a stall with a long line or where there are a lot of people eating outside. While it may seem a bit crazy to want to wait in line, a vendor that is popular with the locals is likely to sell the tastiest and the most sanitary food.Lots of people also means a higher ingredient turnover, which mean things are likely to be much fresher. Beware of a stall that people seem to be avoiding because that is where you will run into tummy trouble before you can say “gastroenteritis”.
A Thing on a Stick in Guilin |
The chances of a street food vendor speaking any English are less than zero, so it is time to employ some creative methods to get your message across. Try pointing, nodding, grunting and maybe even miming. You can use your fingers to indicate the number you would like, although keep in mind that the Chinese count on their fingers differently than we do in the West. Do not worry, as the vendor is likely to be more amused than annoyed at the spectacle you create. Watching a laowai (foreigner) buying and eating Chinese street food is something that the locals may find hilarious.
One
of the greatest things about street food is that it is impossibly cheap, as you
can often get a full meal for less than a euro. The downside to this is that
vendors are not likely to have much change. If you are planning on some serious
snacking, then make sure you have some small change. A ten RMB note is a good
start, although some one RMB notes or coins would be better.
Cheapie lunch in Yangshuo with Bill and Julia |
There is a near endless variety of
foods to pick from, varying wildly from region to region. You can of course try
anything that looks interesting or smells good. If you are not sure where to
start, here are some popular snacks to keep an eye out for.
Firstly, try some baozi. These are soft steamy buns with a
variety of fillings. Pork is the most popular. Usually you buy a wooden basket
full of them and dip them into a spicy soy sauce mixture or, even better, that yummy peanut sauce. They are most popular
for breakfast. Also look for their popular dumpling cousin, jaozi. They are a bit like Russian pelmeni. Irena and I often have jaozi for supper in the evening. You can
fry them to make the pastry brown and crispy. They are excellent with a cold Tsingtao beer.
Kao rou is a
type of Muslim barbecue brought to China from Central Asia. This is
particularly popular in the Shaanxi province, but it can be found all over the
country. Strips of lamb are rubbed with spices, skewered onto a stick and then grilled
over a low flame. Chicken and sometimes beef are also offered. Your order is based
on the number of sticks you would like.
One of my favourites is “tea eggs”.
You will see a big pot of eggs boiling in a black liquid. The black tea stains
the eggs brown and gives them a uniquely nutty flavor.
Where is the peanut sauce? |
There is always an element of daring
in every new street food experience. Without speaking Chinese, there is a big chance
that you will not know exactly what you are getting. (In fact, that might be an
advantage.) You also might not know the correct way to eat it. There is always
a danger, however small, of getting sick. On the other hand, the rewards of an
interesting, cheap, and delicious meal outweigh that risk for many people. So
take a chance and sample something new. At the very least, it makes a great
photo and a good story.
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